The Lingerie Contest: Tracing, Layout, and Alterations

Tracing the pattern pieces.

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Because the fabric is so sheer, I am adding a lining. I wanted the lining to have less fullness (in the yoke seam) than the outer gown but before I removed any fullness from the pattern I needed to determine the minimum width of the lining piece at the yoke seam (so that the  lining would be at least as wide as the yoke). Here I am measuring the bottom of one of the yoke pieces. I turned the measuring tape on its side so that I could measure the curve. 2010_lingerie_3

I later realized that although I don’t want a  lot of extra bulk in the yoke seam, I also don’t want a drastic difference between the lining and the gown. So, I’ll have to compromise between these two issues. I have since added some fullnes back in on my lining piece (which is just a copy of the gown pattern piece).

Layout! This fabric is not fun to work with, since it is slippery. However, that isn’t my biggest layout challenge. I don’t have a lot of fabric to work with here and it has some flaws. I’m glad I already decided not to use the sleeves ~ I wouldn’t have room for them.

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Alas! I just couldn’t make it work. So, I removed some fullness from the gown piece and shortened the gown a lot from what I had originally planned. Also, when fitting the muslin, I decided to take in the side of the gown some. I was just going to take a wider seam allowance but after the layout problems I went ahead and removed 1/4″ from the side seam. I’ll probably do French seams, and since I don’t think I can do that with a 1/4″ seam allowance, that will probably shave off a little more and (I hope) make it just right.

Now, if I can just make it all fit this time!

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